Sunday, March 8, 2020

Nomads-R-Us

Yet another week is coming to an end on our adventure, leading us into week 7 - HALF WAY!! I am extremely anxious at the thought of ending our travels in only 6 short weeks, but there is also comfort in knowing that I will be home so soon. Currently, I am walking the fine line of my comfort zone and finding out how hard it is to live the nomadic lifestyle. Naturally, I find myself feeling like we do not belong, or that we are trespassing in people's homes, because we don't have a permanent place to stay - not to mention living out of our suitcases. On top of this, not knowing people in the countries that we are traveling has an isolating effect on Lainie and I. Needless to say, I could never do this without her (or another travel companion). I am very proud of us for leaving our lives behind to go on this adventure, and for thriving as we have been despite the conditions.

We (mom, Lainie, and I) stayed in Bangkok for about 5 days at a colorful hotel that was in the heart of the backpacking hub. We were one street over from Khao San Road, Thailand's backpacker street, but ours was just as crowded with stalls of food and clothes, and lots of people every night. Bangkok was HUGE. The city boasts beautiful temples, but unlike the other cities that we visited in Thailand, it is home to many different districts/neighborhoods full of massive shopping malls and other attractions. We tried to do it all, but I wish we were more prepared in our planning. Some of my favorite parts of Bangkok include the floating market, spending time on Khao San, and seeing a train slowly travel through one of the markets - the market stalls and vendors actually move for the train!

After Bangkok, my mom, Lainie, and I flew to Phuket, Thailand - happy birthday to me! Phuket is home to GORGEOUS beaches with incredible views, as well as the Phuket Big Buddha that sits atop the Nakkerd Hills. We had three short days to enjoy the beach in Phuket, and they were glorious. Lainie and I got way too burnt on our first day and had to be careful for the next few, but even so, Phuket was the perfect "vacation from our vacation."

Saying goodbye to mom in the Phuket airport was harder than I thought it would be! All three of us had tears in our eyes as we group-hugged before parting ways. It was so nice to have mom here with us to mediate between Lainie and I - we needed it at this point - and to take care of us! While I am trying to become more mature and independent, I definitely needed some "mommy-time."

From Phuket, Lainie and I traveled overnight to Melbourne, Australia, and mom flew home to O'Hare. Melbourne has been a lot of fun to explore! It took Lainie and I a while to get used to understanding the people around us after we had been tuning out the languages that we couldn't understand. It almost overwhelmed us! In the last couple of days, we took tours to the Great Ocean Road and Philip Island. We got to see the Twelve Apostles, Loc Ard Gorge, plenty of Koalas and Kangaroos - and feed them! - and the penguin parade on Philip Island. The koalas, kangaroos, wombats, wallabies, and penguins are ADORABLE!! It's molting season for the penguins so they are chubby and adorable. The weather here has been quite crappy, but we made do and were rewarded with a beautifully sunny day to walk along the river and explore the festivals that the city had going on today. There is never a shortage of things to do here!

Tomorrow Lainie and I are flying to Sydney! I'm excited to explore more of Australia, as well as visit with a friend from volunteering in Vietnam.

Talk soon,
Lilly

Sunday, February 23, 2020

From Namastay to "Mama Stay!"

Clearly, some time has passed since my last post. But, as always, if anyone wants a quick update on life abroad, you can message me on WhatsApp! I am astounded at how quickly a month of traveling has blown by - it always scares me when time seems to move this fast.

After our quick visit in Phnom Penh, Lainie and I traveled to the smaller city of Siem Reap, Cambodia, home to the beautiful Angkor Wat temples. Fun fact: in Siem Reap, no buildings can be taller than Angkor Wat, which is about 4 stories tall. That fact was quite a change from the 30-story sky bars that Lainie and I had hit in Phnom Penh! Our hostel in Siem Reap was a colorful and vibrant place - music and drinks always flowing by the pool - and was fun to meet new people at. The Angkor Archeological Park actually houses hundreds of temple ruin sites - major and minor, small and big. In our first full day, Lainie and I visited the (largely intact) Bayon temple which was very cool. The tops of the towers have faces of Buddha carved into them on all sides, and the walls are ornately patterned with dancing buddhas and flowers. After exploring this temple, we took a  boat tour to one of the floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake - an activity that definitely humbled me. On this tour, we floated along and saw what life is like for these families - most of the floating shacks don't have bathrooms! Our group was invited into one of the homes (part of the tour) where we sat in a circle on the floor snacking, drinking, and having our questions answered by the older lady who owned the house. The shack rocked with the lake water as we sat - just like a boat would. Lainie and I saw the mats that would be laid down for sleeping and I could not help but be overly thankful for all that I have: mattresses, an overabundance of clothing and shoes, plenty of food to eat, etc.

The next day, Lainie and I were joined by mama!! I was overjoyed to see her - both Lainie and I had tears in our eyes - which I did not expect given my excitement to be traveling without parents. Immediately, we dropped mom's stuff in the room and went to tour another one of the large Angkor temples: Ta Prohm, more commonly known as the Tomb Raider temple for its appearance in the movies. This temple was smaller than the last but had lots more to see! Ta Prohm was overtaken by nature and now has large trees growing into the stones of the walkways and the walls - SO cool.

On Saturday (the 15th) we did a sunrise tour of Angkor Wat which allowed us to see the sun rise over the temple and then tour the inside. Angkor Wat is massive! To reach the inside of the temple, there are different levels, or floors, to climb before reaching the highest point and the greatest view. The stairs leading to the highest tower were large and steep - I am extremely proud of myself for making it out unscathed after a panic attack at our descent (my knees were literally shaking).

Our travels have since brought us to Chiang Mai, Thailand, where we spent a good part of the first day at the zoo feeding the animals. The next day was an INCREDIBLE experience spent, again, with animals - it was the day that Lainie and I had been looking forward to for a long time! Early in the morning we found ourselves riding in the back of a truck on our way to an elephant sanctuary. When we got there, we were given a "drug rug" looking shirt to wear and a pocket full of bananas and sugar cane pieces. We fed the elephants, ate lunch ourselves, made medicine balls for the elephants (makes them poop), and then got to bathe the elephants in mud and water. These gentle giants were SO cute - they giggle and play with each other, as well as with the trainers. I'm still not over this day.

We are currently in Chiang Rai, Thailand, where we visited the White Temple, Blue Temple, Black House Exhibit, opium museum, golden triangle, and tea plantation ALL in one day. The White Temple was immaculate: everything was white with silver mosaic tiles that glinted in the sun. Definitely my favorite temple we have seen thus far. The Black House is actually an art exhibit spanning over a large area. The exhibit consists of dark wooden "houses" filled with animal parts giving the space an eery feel. The golden triangle is where Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos meet - a cool tourist attraction. We saw the Blue temple at night when it was lit up with blue and white lights. The inside of this temple was gorgeously painted with Buddhist gods and flowers in cool shades of blue, green, and purple.

Tomorrow morning we are flying to Bangkok which I am very excited to explore!

Till next time,
Lilly

*** Text my mom if you need my WhatsApp number for quicker updates! I enjoy receiving personal messages and knowing who is reading these blogs (I can't actually see that)!***

Monday, February 10, 2020

Double the Countries, Double the fun

Currently mourning week 3's cold weather as I sit in steamy Phnom Penh, Cambodia - that's right...we are onto our next country! It's crazy to me how quickly time is flying, and I still can't quite shake the dream-like feeling of this trip. I keep feeling like I will wake up in the Tri-Delt house at Iowa and this semester will have been a dream!

Hanoi was rainy and cold the entire few days that we were there, but even worse was the fact that they closed ALL tourist attractions/major sites due to the Corona Virus. Lainie and I think that everyone is blowing this way out of proportion. Jokingly, I told Lainie that standing outside in the cold and rain could get us sick faster than this stupid virus - I still think I'm right. Anyway, we walked around the dreary city and day-drank to pass the time before we moved on to our next destination: Sapa, Vietnam.

To get to Sapa we took the Chapa Express: a cozy overnight sleeper train. I am still surprised and proud with myself for taking this train both ways. Before this trip I was truly scared of trains and would avoid them at all costs - I'm not quite sure what changed other than the idea of getting out of my comfort zone. The Chapa Express did not bring Lainie or I the best night's sleep with all the bouncing, but we made do. Our hotel in Spa was our "splurge" hotel. The Hotel De La Coupole is a GORGEOUS place set at the top of the Sapa rice terraces. The room would have been perfect if the view was a little better - we were basically living in the low-hanging clouds. We decided that our first of the two days in Sapa would be a relaxing day, and spent some time at the spa. The next day we toured two of the villages down in the valley below our hotel. The Lao Chai and Ta Van villages are tucked into the steps of the rice fields and are very minimal: dirt roads and small shack-houses. Water buffalo (family pets) roam around the terraces and graze peacefully. When the sun peaked out, the view of the rice terraces was incredible.

After another train ride back to Hanoi, we were headed back to the airport: Phnom Penh awaited our arrival! At first, the heat felt very good coming from a cold and rainy few days in Vietnam, but now I am sweating again (not complaining!). We headed to our Airbnb to find that it had almost no air conditioning - this just would not do. So, like the snobs that we are, we got a refund on that spot and quickly changed to a new location: this one with an incredible view of the city and plenty of aircon. 
We only have about 3 days here, so yesterday we did a full day of walking around the city to the National Museum, the Central Market, and the Wat Phnom Temple before my poor feet couldn't handle my shoes anymore - so many blisters! Today began with the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda, and then grew a little more grim as we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, S21 prison, and the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (otherwise known as The Killing Fields). All of these locations were mentally draining and left Lainie and I agreeing that the world is a "fucked up place" (pardon my language). All we can do is remember the joys that life has to offer and hope that history never repeats itself.

On a lighter note, we are now relaxing and will soon head out to see the night market and the Sisowath-Quay boardwalk. 

Wish you were here!
Lilly






Monday, February 3, 2020

Week 2 and a Change of Scenery

WOW...I guess time really does fly when you're having fun! Week 2 went by faster than the first, and has now brought a change of scenery. Lainie and I worked at the orphanage from Monday to Wednesday, and then cooked meals of a local hospital on Thursday and Friday. It feels incredible to have been able to make even a small difference in the world before going on to a new city.

I was very sad to leave Ho Chi Minh. Not only did we get the chance to volunteer, but we met a bunch of cool people along the way. Many of the volunteers were either around my age or in their 50s-60s, making the accommodation feel very safe because I had my friends and my "parents" in one place. From the first week, Lainie and I were able to make friends with the younger volunteers by just hanging out in the building, as well as by going out. We ended up in District One with our new friends almost every day after volunteering where we ate, drank and shopped. One of the best parts of District One is Bui Vien, the famous "Backpacker Street." It's overflowing with triple story bars/clubs, restaurants, and people - LOTS of people. Music blares from every bar and colorful lights paint the street: a drunk paradise. 26 stories above the street, there are a few well-known sky bars with incredible views of District One and the rest of Ho Chi Minh City. Up there, we could dance and laugh for hours, especially on "ladies night" when women drink for free! Such a fun time.

Our group of friends included people from all over. Anna - from France - is a petite girl with a big attitude, and an even bigger heart. We grew very close over my two weeks in Ho Chi Minh. My new friends Jenny (UK), Marion, Wout, and Olivier (all three from Belgium) are hilarious, but were quite cliquey - they'd already known each other - and were a little harder to get to know. Pien and Leanne from Holland came to volunteer at the beginning of week 2, and were the sweetest people I've had the pleasure of getting to know. It was very interesting to make new friends without much prior knowledge of their respective countries. I loved hearing their accents and languages, as well as their stories and family traditions.

On Saturday, Lainie and I left the volunteer accommodation around 6 a.m. for our flight to Hoi An, Vietnam. Straightaway, we were greeted by a cool breeze - something we hadn't felt in a while. Ho Chi Minh had a consistently humid and 90-degree climate, while Hoi An's was breezy and about 80 degrees!! Our AirBnb was a gorgeous haven from the busy streets with a small pool and abundant greenery. Immediately, we dropped our bags and headed out for the afternoon, hitting the bigger market streets filled with trinkets, clothes, street food, and plenty of coffee shops.

Hoi An was a pleasant change from Ho Chi Minh's city structure. Its markets and old quarter/ancient town were colorful, charming areas that bled into each other. The buildings are mostly pastel yellow with terra-cotta roofs, the streets are filled with people, and at night, colorful lanterns glow as far as the eye can see. At night, the Thu Bon river is filled with more lanterns and colorful lights tied boats and canoes of various shapes and sizes.

On Sunday, Lains and I booked a tour to the Am Phu cave, the Monkey Mountain, and the Marble Mountain, all of which were incredible. The Marble Mountain had giant Buddha statues, Chinese temples, two large pagodas, and about 500 steps along the way to the top of the mountain. The climb was slightly treacherous, but the view made the uneven, slippery steps very worth it. The Am Phu cave was just around one side of the mountain and also held a ginormous Buddha statue. On sunnier days, the light floods into the cave and looks like a waterfall, but when we went it didn't quite have that same effect. Needless to say, it was still a wonderful sight. Finally, we headed to the Monkey Mountain where I gaped at the LARGEST Buddha statue I've ever seen. I still cannot seem to wrap my head around how much time and material it must have taken to create such a giant structure.

Today brought with it a new city: Hanoi, Vietnam. The plane ride from Hoi An to Hanoi was only an hour, but a huge change in the climate. It is currently 65 degrees and raining - a great change of pace. Lainie and I found a yummy taco place for lunch (sick of rice and noodles!!) and are now laying in bed as we wait for the worst of the rain to pass. This AirBnb is smaller but still quite nice - the bed is so comfy I might have to go nap right....NOW!

Talk soon,
Lilly


Sunday, January 26, 2020

CH-CH-CH-CH-CHANGES

Today was our first volunteer experience here in Ho Chi Minh and it was definitely an trying experience. The volunteers started the day with an early breakfast and walked over to the most beautiful orphanage/pagoda. We walked in blindly and were quickly given small cutting boards, blunt knives, a stool only a few inches tall, and bags of food to begin preparing. Lainie and I were told to start on a seemingly never-ending bag of water spinach and began tearing small pieces for a stew. An hour of cutting and tearing passed before we realized how long it had been and finally straightened out our backs - ouch. After we cooked the ingredients into a porridge-like meal, it was time for a short break.

We walked out into the courtyard and began exploring the pagoda. The entire structure was painted a bright yellow that contrasted the blue sky beautifully, and the gold accents glinted with the sunlight - breathtaking. The many speakers continually played a chant/song that lulled in the background of my thoughts and gave the experience an aura of calm. Inside the pagoda we padded around with bare feet and I were awed by the hundreds of different Buddha statues - big and small - that lined the walls and filled the middle of the space. We climbed the four floors of the pagoda as the chanting hummed on, and I haven't felt as relaxed or as safe yet as I did in that structure. It was peaceful and almost hopeful as places of worship go.

When we stepped back into the orphanage part of the building we were greeted by smiling faces of Vietnamese children at the age of 2 or 3. Before today, we were told that we would be cooking for and feeding many disabled children, so these smiling faces were not what I was expecting to see. But, as we walked down the corridor towards more rooms of kids, I was caught off-guard yet again. In these rooms sat the disabled children that we were told about. We saw the same curved legs, enlarged heads, and half-limbs as the pictures showed in the War Remnants Museum: telltale signs that we were seeing Agent Orange affect generations of Vietnamese people. A large pang of guilt hit as I realized not only were these kids in pain, but that this pain was brought on by us. Suddenly, I wanted to go back into the kitchen; to cook more for these children; and to give them as much as I could, no matter the physical pain I felt. I wish we could all feel this feeling in order to realize the effects our actions have on others, especially in war.

As our break ended we were given bowls of food and spoons, as well as a child to help feed. As I walked over to the young-adult in orange who was strapped into a high-chair, my heart was beating out of my chest. Am I prepared or qualified for this? Why do I feel scared? I didn't want to inflict any more pain or discomfort on this girl than she was already feeling, in fact, I wanted to make it go away. As I spoon-fed her a yogurt cup with a smile on my face, I couldn't help but be thankful for the abilities that I have mentally and physically. I will never forget this feeling of extreme gratitude.

Leaving the orphanage, I still felt as though I had not done enough, but knew that I had done all that I could. We will go back tomorrow and Wednesday to help the same kids, and then will do the same for a local hospital on Thursday and Friday. I'm looking forward to another sobering experience before Lainie and I travel on our own, and will try to make a habit of thinking about this day every morning of my very blessed life.

With a changing perspective,
Lilly

The First Week

If I were asked to describe this first week in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, in a couple of words, I would use words like surreal and dreamlike. This past week has flown by in a blur of colorful places and faces, not to mention heaps of new information about many different cultures. I've met new friends from around the world - Canada, UK, France, Italy, Belgium and more - and have visited some of the most beautiful spots that this city has to offer. The following is the past week at a glance:

Lainie and I took off from O'Hare airport around 11 a.m. Chicago time. I was stuck in the middle seat with Lainie on my right (the window seat) and a stranger on my left...wonderful. Lains fell asleep before the plane took off, so I watched her head bob for a while before my trusted pair of "plane pills" - Xanax and Dramamine - worked their magic and allowed for sleep to take me, too. We landed in Seoul, South Korea, 14 LONG hours later.

Our layover in Seoul was only 3 hours so we stretched out our stiff muscles, grabbed a coffee, and people-watched in Incheon International Airport. These few hours were our first taste of the language barrier that we would soon face. Even doing a simple act such as ordering a coffee seemed to be slightly challenging for us. I hoped that it would get better. We took off from Seoul at around 6 p.m., South Korea time, with a 5 hour (ish) flight ahead of us. Sleep came very easily this time around because of the time change; I was out directly after we took off.

The amount of people inside Tan Son Nhat International Airport in Ho Chi Minh City was nothing compared to the zoo that waited for us outside. It took a while to find our bags but eventually, we rolled our way into the sticky heat of Vietnam and found our pick-up from the volunteer company amidst the crowds that waited for other passengers. Thinking back, this chaos was probably due to incoming family members for Tet, the lunar new year, which was January 25th. When we arrived at the volunteer accommodation (about midnight)), we were shown our beds and went straight to sleep.

Our orientation/culture week was led by our new friend, Vi, who works for the volunteer company, and consisted of seeing many of the tourist sites, as well as a Vietnamese cooking and language lesson. On Monday, Vi took the new group of volunteers - 5 of us: Lainie, Anna (France), Theresa (Canada), Jane (Canada), and myself - to the local college to hold our lesson on the volunteer accommodation, the Vietnamese culture, and the language necessities. Tuesday began with a trip to the Jade Emperor Pagoda, then to the Independence/Reunification Palace, the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Saigon Central Post Office, the Ben Thanh Market, and finally, to the Vietnam War Remnants Museum. The following day we visited a local "wet market" which allowed us to see where the locals go to do their daily grocery shopping. During our Vietnamese cooking class we tried our hand at making fresh summer rolls and spring rolls, as well as a traditional corn dessert. On Thursday, we took a bus to the Cu Chi Tunnels where we experienced the conditions of the Vietnamese during the war, including the underground tunnels and the daily life. Friday began as a rest day and ended in a New Years Eve celebration that is only slightly similar to our own. Here, each family lays out a spread of flowers, fruits, water, rice wine, fake money and gold, and burn incense with prayers to invite their ancestors to come celebrate. All of these offerings will lead to an abundant and joyful year ahead. Lainie and I both fell asleep before midnight and were not fazed by the fireworks that went off.

The next day the five of us took a guided trip down the Mekong Delta in which we visited the islands around the delta, explored a beautiful pagoda, tried coconut candies from a local factory, and were pushed down a small river in a canoe. It was a fun and long day. Yesterday, we taxied to District 1 (the main city center) where we walked the streets and fell into a spa for a quick massage and manicure. These spas are extremely common here and are almost as frequent as coffee shops which, amazingly, are almost every other shop. The spas, coffee shops, restaurants, and markets are all extremely inexpensive!

A bit about the volunteer program:
Lainie and I are volunteering in Ho Chi Minh City and in Bali, Indonesia, through a program called International Volunteer HQ (IVHQ). This program allows volunteers from all over the world to choose a program that they'd be interested in participating in, as well as a place that they'd like to volunteer in. Thus, we were able to choose the places that we wanted to visit and then the work that we found most interesting. In Ho Chi Minh, we signed up for the "Food Outreach" Program which allows us to cook meals for the impoverished and disabled individuals of the city and surrounding areas. We start this work on Monday and I am very excited to get my hands dirty and feel like I am making a difference.

Looking back throughout this week, I cannot see a difference within myself, but I can see a difference in my relationship with my sister. It has been really fun to hear some of the answers that she has to people's questions and to learn more about her. I think that we are already growing closer and I'm hoping I'll continue to adopt even a small portion of her personable and motherly nature.

-Lilly


Friday, January 17, 2020

Dodging Dengue

*Pinch* Ow. 
As I sit in the travel clinic at the Glenbrook hospital and receive my final vaccination, my mind can't help but wander to the long list of diseases that was presented to me during my initial consultation with student health at Iowa. The doctor there was a dream; and I really do mean that! He eased my nerves with a calming voice and jokes about the serious topics that we were covering: the many diseases and risks that my sister, Lainie, and I would face on our wild adventure. Similarly, he eased my mother's tensions as she shot him question after question on speaker-phone during our appointment! Clearly, my mother and I were on edge, even before we read the lengthy index of ailments. But now, I sit on the paper sheet of a medical table just a little more at ease knowing that I'll be dodging (fingers crossed!) a few more diseases than just dengue.

My four-month winter break consisted of lots of relaxing, but even more preparation for the trip of a lifetime. For one, frequent doctor visits were necessary in order to make sure all bases were covered. These included everything from a dentist appointment to the travel consultations where they prescribed me Malarone for Malaria prevention, and Azithromycin for the lovely traveler's diarrhea!! The prep continued with trips to stores like REI and TJmaxx for supplies such as a water bottle with a built-in filter and extremely lightweight, breathable clothing for the intense humidity.

More preparation ensued yesterday and today as Lainie and I began soaking our clothes in Permethrin, a strong insecticide, and then packing them into our suitcases as strategically as possible - we both have trouble with over-packing. Eventually, we rolled and shoved everything into our bags and could finally breathe a bit easier. This was the last piece of the puzzle.

If it weren't for friends and family coming to say goodbye and good luck, I don't think this experience would baffle me as much as it currently is. It seems surreal that I will not be going back to school this semester to struggle through classes that have no impact on the rest of my life. For once, I feel like I am actually doing something of substance, and that feels really damn good. I used to kick myself for not taking the time to travel before starting college, but now I can't imagine this semester any other way. I know what I will be missing at school, and I am not grieving over it. On top of that, I am more than ready to learn loads about myself and create a more balanced life in all areas. This adventure is the definition of a growing experience!

Our first destination, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, is 13 hours ahead of Chicago time, and I've thought about jet-lag a little more than necessary in the last couple days. I had decided on pulling an all-nighter before our 11 a.m. flight in an effort to combat the worst part of flying. But, my eyes are now drooping, my body is aching, and I think I'm hallucinating. Maybe I'll get a couple hours of shut-eye before I have to deal with the bustling O'Hare airport. After all, tomorrow is a BIG day!

Signing off,
Lilly